My first trip to Molokai was with my boyfriend in 1985. One week on Molokai, then one week on Maui. By the end of that first week we desperately tried to cancel our reservations on Maui. We returned to Molokai every single year, staying for two to three weeks each time, and never bothering to go to any other island anymore.
Starting at the airport car rental desk, they recognized us and welcomed us back. We'd arrive at the Kaluakoi Hotel to be greeted by name and a "welcome back" fruit basket in our room. The Friendly Isle? Are you kidding me?? We would drive down the highway and every single car you passed would wave at you. Complete strangers.
I remember the time we snuck into Ranch lands in our Jeep through an open gate. When we got back to the gate it was closed and locked. We high-centered the Jeep trying to drive out over a barrier. Totally stuck. Every single car that passed by stopped to help. Someone went to get a truck to pull us out. He wouldn't take money.
We got married on Kepuhi Beach in 1989. No limos, no white gowns. I bought my "wedding dress" at the Liberty House that morning. A blue and pink wrap dress, aloha print. The Kanemitsu Bakery made our wedding cake (we ordered it the day before).
We bought property at the Papohaku Ranchlands. We were referred to as kamaiana. We weren't rich. We had decent jobs on the mainland and we scrimped and saved and it worked out somehow. Years later we'd get letters from Realtors telling us that the prices had doubled, tripled.
Oh no! That means the property taxes will go up. Who cares what the price is, we'll never sell it. Someday we'll build there and retire, we said. We love it there so much. The red dirt, the slow pace, the warm winds, the warm people.
We had a couple of kids and the trips to Molokai became less frequent. The last time we were there the Kaluakoi Hotel was mostly closed down, but we were recognized by some of the remaining staff. No welcome basket, but one stopped by with mangoes picked from his own garden. We were warned about anti-tourist sentiment. We heard about slashed tires in Kaunakakai. We were worried but didn't see any signs of that.
We're coming back in July. The trip is planned and the deposits paid.
On the Internet I saw that the Ranch was closing down. One Internet posting talked about civil war on Molokai! I visited The Molokai Times Web site and read all the postings. I'm wondering, should we go? Do they even want us there anymore? Will we be welcomed? What has happened on Molokai? Why all of the distrust? The suspicion?
Not everyone who isn't locally born is out to exploit Molokai. We love it for what it is! We don't want it to change. The red dirt, the slow pace, the warm winds, the warm people. The important things don't ever have to change. Ever. No matter how many changes or how much progress may someday come to Molokai.
Cindi Sharkey
